One of the Caribbean鈥檚 greatest conservation success stories began in the early 1950s, when ornithologist and conservation activist Robert Porter Allen followed a rumor to the southernmost island in the Bahamas, where he discovered one of the last breeding colonies of West Indian Flamingos.
鈥淎llen ran into my grandfather and his brother Jimmy, hunting flamingos out in the saltwater lagoons,鈥 says Randolph 鈥淐asper鈥 Burrows, who has spent most of his life on Great Inagua Island. 鈥淗unters would wait until they were nesting. They used long sticks and dogs and shotguns, and when they came in the flamingos would panic and trample each other. Then you鈥檇 have wild boars coming in later to eat the eggs.鈥
Nowadays, Burrows specializes in showing visitors the reclusive flamingos in their natural habitat. He鈥檚 one of several islanders who participated in 探花精选鈥檚 Bird-Based Tourism Initiative, an innovative guide-training program that promotes conservation in Latin America and the Caribbean by creating economic opportunities in regions with exceptional bird life and biodiversity.
Great Inagua and Little Inagua islands are what Bahamians call 鈥渙ut islands鈥 or 鈥渇amily islands,鈥 off the beaten path for tourists and most Bahamians. Inagua鈥檚 relative isolation and unusual habitats make it an attractive environment for American Flamingos, as well as more than 130 other bird species.
Only about 800 people live on Great Inagua, the third-largest island in the Bahamas. In Matthew Town, the only settlement on either island, there are no casinos or luxury hotels, though a handful of guesthouses offer rooms to visitors. The main industry on the islands is a Morton saltworks, which harvests a million tons of salt from giant evaporative saltwater reservoirs called 鈥減ans鈥 that border the park.
The largest of the islands鈥 three national parks is Inagua National Park, which covers 45 percent of Great Inagua Island. A day in the park with Burrows is a uniquely colorful experience, with white sand and blue waves complemented by abundant pink feathers.
鈥淲e have to be careful because it鈥檚 easy to spook the birds,鈥 Burrows says, as he carefully leads visitors to the edge of the scrublands surrounding Lake Windsor. About 200 feet away, several dozen flamingos stand stone-still in the shallows, facing into the breeze and ready to take flight.
Burrows notes that flamingos aren鈥檛 born pink; they turn that color when they reach adulthood, due to their steady diet of brine shrimp, which thrive in the salt pans. As filter feeders, the flamingos help to keep the lagoons healthy by keeping brine shrimp and other organisms in check.
Burrows looks up toward a line of 50 or more flamingos, flying toward the opposite side of the lagoon. 鈥淚f you have low clouds and a really big flock, and the sun is just right, the reflection of the light off the backs of a big flock can turn the bottom of the clouds pink,鈥 he says.
In additional to flamingos, the park hosts the endangered Bahama Parrot, Snowy Plover, and breeding colonies of Reddish Egrets, as well as pelicans, ducks, and hummingbirds found nowhere else in the archipelago. The recently described endemic Inagua Woodstar, a beautifully feathered native hummingbird, is found nowhere else in the world.
Burrows has helped his clients discover these birds and many others. But he says that 鈥渢he bright pink birds鈥 are still his favorite.
鈥淲e had 15,000 to 20,000 hatchlings this year, which means the total population may be getting up close to 100,000,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 feel so fortunate that I鈥檝e been able to see them come back strong, in my lifetime. I think we鈥檙e looking at a bright future for this bird.鈥
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If You Go鈥
Geography tip: The southernmost island in the Bahamas actually consists of two separate islands, Great Inagua and Little Inagua.
Getting there: Visitors either fly into , which has the only , or arrive by private sailboat. The island has only a handful of .
Where to visit: , which bills itself as the Birdwatching Capital of the Bahamas, is home to three national parks and reserves, as well as one of three remaining kerosene-burning, hand-cranked lighthouses in the Bahamas. Visitors can also explore beaches and limestone caves, and observe turtles on Little Inagua (a protected habitat for endangered sea turtles).
When to visit: Engage an in late winter and early spring to see the flamingos鈥 head-bobbing, wing-flicking courtship rituals. A few weeks later, watch the adults feeding and standing guard over their fluffy white chicks.
Make a plan: This brings you to several distinct habitats that collectively provide an excellent representation of the country鈥檚 birdlife, including all of the endemics and West Indian specialties in the Bahamas.
Special programs: Led by 探花精选's Matt Jefferey, Holbrook Travel's Bahamas Flyway Expedition focuses on Andros, Great Inagua, and the Abaco Islands.