There鈥檚 a certain charm to riding the 2 train from New York City's Penn Station to Brooklyn first thing on a Saturday. The subway car crawls down Manhattan and across the East River like a dog on its belly; 21 stops and 63 minutes later, it spits me out on Flatbush Avenue, the end of the line. I'm running behind, and only have 46 seconds to catch my safari. The directions take me past the typical corporate slurry of bad coffee, bad appetizers, and bad happy hour specials before I arrive at the Brooklyn College campus, where I join ranks with nine other disheveled-looking adventurers waiting in front of a playground.
It鈥檚 an unseasonable 90-degree morning, yet we鈥檝e abandoned our beds and brunch plans to wilt on this sizzling curb for a very good reason: parrots. These birds aren't your typical domestic chatterboxes: They鈥檙e Monk Parakeets, living wild in the most-populous corner of New York City. The 鈥渕onk鈥 moniker comes from their saintly, foot-long bodies: a feathery green, white, and yellow robe with a shocking blue fringe on the wings. They鈥檙e also called Quaker Parrots, but the reason why is less clear.
Our guide for the day is Steve Baldwin, a life-long Brooklynite and leader of the Big Apple鈥檚 premier (and only) . A digital marketer by profession, Baldwin didn鈥檛 find his parakeet calling until he was in his 50s, when he came led by Brooklyn College鈥檚 Eleanor Miele. Intrigued, Baldwin had to see the birds for himself. Pretty soon he was commuting from his secluded waterfront neighborhood to the heart of the borough every month鈥攆irst with a camera, then with friends, and eventually with an entourage of strangers summoned through the internet. He reconstructed the Monks鈥 story with news articles, research papers, and first-hand accounts, and started leading these free, year-round tours. It鈥檚 been a decade now, but the whole operation has been more than just a public service. For Baldwin, the tours are also therapeutic. The parrots have helped him fight depression, providing an escape and new perspective. 鈥淭hey add enormous psychic value to my life,鈥 he says.
As Baldwin tells it, the Monk Parakeets arrived in Brooklyn long before it got so . . . Brooklyn. Their struggles at home in Argentina started in the 1950s, when the government kicked off an anti-parrot campaign to drive down the species鈥 expanding population. The birds were freeloading on sorghum, fruit, and all kinds of seed-based crops, and the country鈥檚 farmers were out for blood. So, the agricultural department stepped in, and to an equally violent end, launched a public rewards program: five pesos for each pair of feet dismembered from a dead Monk Parakeet.
The talons poured in, but not all of them belonged to parrots; people were lopping off other birds鈥 feet and collecting the bounty anyway. Eventually, word got out that the program was a bust. The government decided to take a different tack by rounding up Monks鈥攁live this time. By the late 1960s, Argentina was deporting thousands of parrots each year, mostly to be sold to the U.S. pet trade.
Of course, some birds escaped. Wild parrot colonies sprang up along the East Coast, with some birds defecting to Chicago, San Francisco, Texas, and even Kansas. Overseas, Monks set up shop in Europe鈥檚 biggest tourist draws鈥擱ome, Barcelona, Gibraltar, Amsterdam鈥攁s well as in Canada and Australia. The population numbers are tough to quantify given the birds鈥 rapid expansion. Here in New York City, there are hundreds scattered across the five boroughs. The first reported sighting was documented in 鈥a flock of about nine or twelve in Fort Tilden, Queens鈥攂ut the species didn鈥檛 appear on a Christmas Bird Count list . Now, it鈥檚 surprising if it doesn鈥檛.
From the moment he kicks off the safari, Baldwin is pumped about the parrots. He鈥檚 already scoped out the hotspots this morning and reports that there are plenty of Monks to stalk. We start by cutting through campus, past the shirtless football team, the concrete mixers, the clouds of samba and marijuana smoke. Our first stop is the college practice field . . . where there are no parrots. The grass used to attract large flocks of them, Baldwin says, but after the college swapped it for turf, the birds fled for less synthetic pastures.
Baldwin then points out a vacant nest that鈥檚 stuffed into a floodlight over the field. The Monk Parakeet is the only parrot species that builds its own homes, in addition to occupying holes, cliffs, and other crevices. The birds collect twigs and woody scraps and weave them into massive structures鈥 they鈥檝e been trained in since birth. They鈥檒l keep adding to the same nests for months, even years, resulting in spiky balls that appear to defy the laws of physics. Some the length of small cars. The biggest abodes can hold about 200 birds, though more typically, they鈥檒l have 20 to 40. Each pair gets its own entrance, hidden at the bottom of the nest to protect from raptors, that leads to a two-room 鈥渁partment." The first chamber is for roosting and relaxing while the second is reserved for laying, incubating, and hatching the eggs. The structures aren鈥檛 made to be waterproof, but the parrots get by; Baldwin knows of a few nests that survived Hurricane Sandy.
Soon we鈥檙e marching into a tidy neighborhood鈥攁 bit east of the campus鈥攑ast the birdbaths, the Chevrolet Camaros, the immaculate flowerbeds. A chorus of Rubber Ducky-like squeaks hits the air. Those are the parakeets, Baldwin explains. He鈥檚 led us right to the Brooklyn mother lode. A pair of nests, each about the size of an unplucked turkey, dangles over the sidewalk. About two-dozen Monk Parakeets pepper the street鈥攕hooting out of peoples鈥 yards, scurrying around the entrances of the nests, calling out alarms from the trees. Necks crane, iPhones come out, and Baldwin keeps narrating.
The colonies, he says, are like little clans, with different tiers of dominance. All the members pitch in to build the nests and keep guard. They鈥檒l typically set up right next to a food source鈥攊n this case, a tree loaded with pinecones鈥攁nd won鈥檛 migrate once they鈥檙e situated. Couples only raise one or two babies each year, taking their time to teach the chicks conversational and construction skills. Communication is key in the colony: The young birds have to learn to distinguish between different calls, such as the rolling distress cry and the frenzied chatter that signals an 鈥渁ll clear.鈥
In the pet-parrot business, Monks are one of the most-skilled talkers, especially when reared by hand, Baldwin says. That鈥檚 what makes the species so attractive to poachers. The birds on this street were once targeted by a bicycle gang that used long-handled nets to catch the parrots and sell them to pet stores. Because of that, Baldwin has sworn us to secrecy to the nests鈥 exact location.
The parrots can be poached quite easily given that they have no legal protection. Being an invasive species, they aren鈥檛 covered under the Migratory Bird Treaty. During winter, the Monks sometimes build their homes on top of power lines to channel the transformers as a heat source. Electric companies will send in crews to take down the nests and gas out the birds (though may soon yield a more peaceful alternative). In states such as New Jersey and Pennsylvania, where Monks are classified as 鈥渄angerous,鈥 possessing one . If fish and wildlife authorities in Pennsylvania find out, they鈥檒l often seize the bird and kill it on the spot, Baldwin says.
But not here in Brooklyn. The Monk Parakeets in Flatbush have been coexisting with the locals for decades; many are fourth- or fifth-generation birds. As far as Baldwin can tell, they don鈥檛 have many conflicts with the native wildlife, either.
While Baldwin is talking, passersby stop in and spark conversation. One man from Panama, who鈥檚 been in the neighborhood for 36 years, remembers whistling at the Monks as a kid and having them whistle back at him. Others are simply happy that we鈥檙e checking out their unlikely stars and invite us to come back.
The city is a bubble鈥攖he perfect refuge for the parrots. It gives them everything they need to live their lives peacefully: trees, cozy streets, humans who aren鈥檛 trying to kill them. 鈥淥ut there they don鈥檛 have too many allies,鈥 Baldwin says. 鈥淏ut the neighbors in these houses are watching out for them. They call them 鈥榦ur birds.鈥 鈥 The Monk Parakeets have become ingrained with the community and its people; they鈥檙e all part of the same flock now. But much like the waves of immigrants that landed in this city before them, they had to earn their place, striving to adapt while creating a new existence for themselves. And in that sense, they are true New Yorkers.